The following blog is an account of a recent trek into the forest reserves of Mae-On district, an area of Northern Thailand where I’m carrying out a study into the ‘Causes and Effects of Deliberate Fire Burning’ – a phenomenon that occurs every year during the dry season (Nov-April). The clearing of land for agricultural activities and the collection of forest products such as wild mushrooms and herbs are believed to be some of the key factors underpinning fire in the local region. So as to gain a clearer insight into why the fires are happening we arranged to meet with a local farmer called Khun Som (Mr Som) who had kindly agreed to take us on a tour of the local forests…. 

    

Wednesday 11/03/09

 

10.00am Alt – 424m

Rendezvous with Kun Som – a local Dairy/Arable farmer who also uses the forest for hunting and collection of forest products.  

 

We begin the trek from the local temple  (The trekking group consisted of myself, my research partner Bjarke, Did the translator and Kun Som).

 

As soon as we walked into the forest area behind the temple it was clear to see that the area had been extensively burnt, scorched black earth spread out all around us. Bjarke made the point that a fire so close to a religious monument must have caused considerable concern. A concern that has no doubt been part of the religious community for many years as Khun Som tells us that fires are a yearly practice to help clear the land so as to make it easier to collect forest products such as Mushrooms, Herbs and Bamboo Shoots. He goes onto state how “some fires can get out of control and burn larger areas than intended” as is the case with the land near the temple.

    

11.00am Alt – 478m 

Trekking through a dry Dipterocarp Forest - a forest type that grows in the driest and most degraded areas, from the valley bottom up to 800m. Forests of this type shed their leaves during the dry season so as to retain water due to the limited ground source availability. Therefore, the forest floors become inundated with leaf litter and easily prone to fires. It was clear that a fire had occurred recently as all that lay beneath us was the ash of burnt leaf litter. Whilst walking through this section of forest Kun Som demonstrates the types of wood harvesting techniques he uses. Despite the strict laws banning any wood collection from Thai forests Khun Som still collects wood, as he feels there is little chance of him being caught by the authorities.

 

As we walked on it soon became apparent that this forest was of a degraded nature, not just because of the lack of leaf litter and stunted tree growth, but also because large clumps of Bamboo began to merge with the forest until they were in fact the dominant species. Bamboos are essentially giant grasses and therefore highly effective competitors. In a forest such as this, that has been burnt annually, fire resistant Bamboos tend to take over to the point where all you have is large swathes of Bamboo and not much else.

 

The following picture illustrates how tree bark is stripped for the use of fire kindling, such practices can stunt the growth of the tree, making it weak and therefore prone to being blown over in gales. (Notice the approaching Bamboo clumps in the background)

  

 

 

12.00pm Alt – 475m

Reached a clearing in the forest where we took a break and assisted Bjarke in removing the spines of a caterpillar from the palm of his hand, a scenario that if not dealt with correctly could lead to excessive itchiness!

The area in which we had come to rest had an eerie feel to it, almost warlike as if it had just been ravaged by a napalm bomb! The only signs of life being the vivid sight of new grass shoots that were sprouting out of the blackened soil. Such a sight reminded me of the burnt roadside verges that too had became colonised with new grasses, which act as perfect grazing areas for cattle. No doubt in a few more weeks the cattle will also be up here enjoying a fresh pasture of grass. 

 

13.00pm Alt - 640m           

After an hour of arduous hiking we finally reached the highest point of the trek. The forest type was still Diptereocarp, but due to the high altitude was less disturbed by Fire. Khun Som explained how fire tends to be started at the base of hills and as we had experienced the almost vertical climb up here is enough to deter even the hardened fire-starter and therefore lessening the impact of fire at higher climbs. The fact that we were also on the edge of a National Park may also have something to do with less fire activity as such areas are protected by a more comprehensive fire prevention strategy than forest reserves.

 

   

14.00 Alt 550 – 500m

On our decent the familiar sight of scorched earth returned and with it an emergence of Bamboo forest. However, much to our surprise, the clumps of Bamboo suddenly began to diminish and we entered into what can only be described as a less degraded forest- large towering trees of a height of 30 m +.  It turned out that this area was part of Khun Som’s village and was in fact under going a fallow period in which nothing within the forest is to be disturbed. Such rules and reg’s are common amongst villages, they are part of local law, that isn’t always recognised at the national level, but is practiced amongst villages. The effectiveness of such agreements differs between villages some strong and some weak. The forest that I was now stood in had some of the most well kept trees I have seen whilst carrying out this research. The only set back was the usual presence of blackened earth due to uncontrolled fires lit in the neighbouring area. Whilst in this part of the forest we hear the distant sounds of gunshots, Khun Som knows that hunting is illegal in Thailand but just like the wood collection, there is little in the way of enforcement.  Although he isn’t hunting today his usual catch will consist of Jungle Fowl, Squirrel and sometimes, if he is lucky a Wild Boar. Fire is sometimes used to drive out animals from the forest, but Khun Som says that he doesn’t use fire to hunt.

 

 

 

    

15.00 Alt – 550m

Whilst walking through the fallow area we began to hear the distant sounds of a running stream. As we approached the flowing water a distinct transition occurred, the burnt earth gave way to copious amounts of leaf litter and small saplings. Unaffected by the threat of fire the canopy became a lot more vibrant, vivid greens, creepers and birdlife abound all around us- such an experience illustrated how the presence of flowing water can dramatically effect the health of a forest. It was as if we had discovered an Oasis. However, the experience was short lived, moments later I looked to the left of me and saw smoke rising from the forest!

 

    

Bjarke and myself hastily walked in the direction of the smoke and as we got closer, we were greeted by an enormous fallen tree that had naturally uprooted itself due to the poor condition of the soil structure beneath it. A fire was rapidly taking hold of the fallen tree which we weren’t sure how it had started. One assumed that the area had been set alight so as to clear around the tree to make it easier to harvest its woody bulk. We stood and watched in awe, as the fire grew larger and larger, eventually engulfing the majority of the fallen tree. For some reason Khun Som was reluctant to come and see the fire and so our queries about the fire were left unsolved.  

 

           

15:30 Alt – 456m

We eventually emerged from the forest and began walking across the terraced paddy fields which at this time of year are either full of vegetable crops or left fallow awaiting the rains of the South West Monsoon.

 

Then all of a sudden, just when we thought we had seen enough degradation for one day, Khun Som kneeled down on the path that we were walking along and lit the verge, astonished, yet again, we looked on helplessly as another blaze took hold! The land which Khun Som was burning was his own and he said that he wanted to clear it so as to plant a crop of maize for his dairy cows and that this was the quickest and cheapest way to do it. Unlike forest fires, which are outlawed in Thailand, if you’re a farmer with the correct land tenure documents burning isn’t illegal. The best thing local authorities can do to manage the situation is advise farmers against burning or at least practice controlled burning. In this case Khun Som, having lit his land, walked on back to his home, leaving the fire to tend to itself.  

  

Fire in Thailand and the greater S.E Asian region has been practiced for centuries and farmers like Khun Som see it as a crucial part of their livelihoods. Unfortunately though a practice, which some consider to be of benefit, is also becoming a serious cause for concern for others. For the last few years the low lying city of Chiang Mai, due to it’s geographical location- surrounded on all sides by rugged mountains- has become engulfed in a haze of smoke, a scenario that reaches its peak in March. Along with the peak in smoke haze comes a peak in hospital admissions due to respiratory related problems. Such a smoke haze also effects the local economy as it deters tourists from visiting the region.

When asked about his opinions of the people who complain about the smoke, he simply states that;  “It’s just our way of life, we have used fire for many years. The issue about smoke is a recent occurrence due to the late rains and hotter air temperatures. It doesn’t last forever. When the rainy season arrives the conditions will improve.”